Clove bud oil

Chemotypes :

The genus Syzygium Gaertn. regroups 1400 species. The clove tree is the most cultivated of all these species.
The greatest diversity of species for this botanical genus comes from Malaysia and South West Australia where many species are very little known and very little used.

Extraction process :

The "cloves" on the clove tree are actually flower buds that have not yet hatched. In Indonesia, production continues to increase each year, reaching about 470,000 hectares in 2010 and producing 111,000 tonnes of cloves a year.
Cloves are grown on the tree until they reach their maximum size and begin to turn red. They are collected and isolated by hand or using a specific machine (capable of harvesting 76 kg of cloves per hour) and dried for a few hours in the sun, transforming its colour to a dark brown. Cloves fallen to the ground are not collected because they are too ripe and would provide a lower quality essential oil. The extraction by steam distillation is done under pressure for 8 to 24h with a yield of about 13 to 15%. At the end of the process, the essential oil of clove is separated from the water by decantation and collected in a florentine vase.
An absolute can also be obtained with a volatile solvent extraction with a yield of about 20%.
In addition, note that clove leaves can also be extracted to obtain a Clove Leaf EO.
This oil contains approximately the same Eugenol content but is much less concentrated in Eugenyl acetate for the benefit of Caryophyllene.

Uses in perfumery :

Used in carnation, amber, spicy and masculine notes.

Stability :

Aromatic compounds can be chromophoric and cause a coloration of the oil, especially in alkaline bases
The esters identified in this raw material can form their corresponding acid in stability tests
The terpenes identified in this raw material can polymerize when they are oxidized

Other comments :

About 90% of the total production of clove is not intended for food or perfumes, but to make kretek, an Indonesian type of cigarettes.
Clove essential oil is the largest source of natural Eugenol because it contains about 80% of it.
The composition of the Clove Leaf EO leads to a better profitability because of the Eugenol isolation (carried out by soda addition). The leaves are therefore also one of the main sources of natural Eugenol.
Clove essential oil and raw clove must meet standards shaped by the American Spice Trade Association (ASTA) and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). These standards relate to the pace, the physicochemical properties of the clove essential oil and its rate in the plant.
Adulteration of the essential oil of clove is possible with synthetic Eugenol, without any major changes in the oil physicochemical standards.

About 90% of the total production of clove is not intended for food or perfumes, but to make kretek, an Indonesian type of cigarettes.
Clove essential oil is the largest source of natural Eugenol because it contains about 80% of it.
The composition of the Clove Leaf EO leads to a better profitability because of the Eugenol isolation (carried out by soda addition). The leaves are therefore also one of the main sources of natural Eugenol.
Clove essential oil and raw clove must meet standards shaped by the American Spice Trade Association (ASTA) and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). These standards relate to the pace, the physicochemical properties of the clove essential oil and its rate in the plant.
Adulteration of the essential oil of clove is possible with synthetic Eugenol, without any major changes in the oil physicochemical standards.

Allergens :

This ingredient is classified as an allergen under European Regulation 2023/1545, dated August 26, 2023.
Its presence must therefore be declared on product labels when it exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.

Signal word :

Danger

Hazard pictograms :

Precautionary statements :

IFRA 51^th :

This ingredient is not restricted for the 51th amendment