Rose absolute (centifolia)

Chemotypes :

Several species from Rosa L. genus can be extracted for the perfume industry :
- Rosa ×centifolia L. : or Rose de mai EO - Rose de Mai Absolute, grown in the region of Grasse, is the most prized of all rose species.
- Rosa ×damascena Mill. : or Damask Rose Absolute - Damask Rose EO

Other widely used species, not necessarily in perfumery :
- Rosa canina L. : dog rose, found in the temperate regions of Europe, Asia and Africa.
- Rosa gallica L. : French rose, native to Central Europe and Asia Minor.
- Rosa moschata Herrm. : musk rose, native to Asia Minor and cultivated in Europe.
- Rosa rugosa Thunb. : Rugosa rose, native to Japan and China.

Extraction process :

In Grasse, roses are picked by hand at sunrise in May and collected in large sacks. The contents are weighed to control the production and determine the amount of solvent needed for their treatment.
The storage of flowers is done on the ground at the plant. The flowers are regularly turned over to move air through them and avoid any deterioration due to their maturation. The flowers must be treated during the same day to get a concrete, followed by an absolute. A rose that has aged for a day does not have the same smell as a rose treated on the day of the harvest.
The roses are rapidly layered in a tank filled with hexane. Three successive baths allow the extraction. After removal of the exhausted flowers and evaporation of the rose hexane (recycled to extract other roses), the concrete is collected. It solidifies quickly at room temperature because it is a waxy substance. Then, it is treated with alcohol and glazed at a temperature gradient from 140 °F to 32 °F, in order to precipitate the waxes. The absolute is obtained after filtration of the waxes and evaporation of the alcohol.
The essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of the flowers resulting in a fresh and lemony smell.
A rose absolute can be distilled to remove the insoluble compounds.

Uses in perfumery :

Used mainly in fine fragrance for its characteristic rose facet so sought-after.

Stability :

Solubility issues in perfumes
Aromatic compounds can be chromophoric and cause a coloration of the oil, especially in alkaline bases
The terpenes identified in this raw material can polymerize when they are oxidized

Other comments :

The rose absolute contains much more Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol than the essential oil because this molecule has very little affinity with water vapor. This explains the honeyed character of the absolute, unlike the Rose de mai EO.
Demand for Rose de Mai absolute is well above supply. Production is weak. In recent years, the rose centifolia is becoming more democratic because more and more small producers are acquiring know-how, but the waiting list for obtaining it remains long.
Grasse's know-how was rewarded at the end of 2018 with an entry into the UNESCO's intangible cultural heritage, for rose, jasmine and tuberose crops in majority.

The rose absolute contains much more Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol than the essential oil because this molecule has very little affinity with water vapor. This explains the honeyed character of the absolute, unlike the Rose de mai EO.
Demand for Rose de Mai absolute is well above supply. Production is weak. In recent years, the rose centifolia is becoming more democratic because more and more small producers are acquiring know-how, but the waiting list for obtaining it remains long.
Grasse's know-how was rewarded at the end of 2018 with an entry into the UNESCO's intangible cultural heritage, for rose, jasmine and tuberose crops in majority.

Allergens :

This ingredient is classified as an allergen under European Regulation 2023/1545, dated August 26, 2023.
Its presence must therefore be declared on product labels when it exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.

Signal word :

Warning

Hazard pictograms :

Precautionary statements :

IFRA 51^th :

This ingredient is not restricted for the 51th amendment