Helichrysum flower oil

Chemotypes :

Depending on its country of culture, immortelle absolute knows variations in its composition: an immortelle cultivated in Montenegro contains a high rate of Neryl Acetate, γ-Curcumene and smaller quantities of Neryl Propionate and aryl-curcumene. On the other hand, if it is cultivated in Greece, it will contain a high level of Geraniol and Geranyl Acetate. Also, an immortelle grown in Corsica contains a high rate of Neryl Propionate, β-diones ("italidiones") with several sesquiterpenes. Finally, a Spanish origin induces a high level of Alpha-Pinene, to the detriment of other compounds.
In perfumery, 6 species are also used: Helichrysum angustifolium, Helichrysum gymnocephalum (female helichrysum), Helichrysum stoechas (also Mediterranean), Helichrysum bracteiferum (male helichrysum), Helichrysum faradifani and Helichrysum splendidum (splendid immortal). These species are included among the 500 cultivable species.

Extraction process :

Once harvested and dried in June and July, immortelle gives an essential oil - Immortelle EO (yield inferior to 1%) or a concrete and an absolute (Immortelle Absolute) if treated by an organic solvent (yield of 1%, then 70% on the concrete).
The flower heads of the plant are cut with a sickle. The cut cannot be mechanized because this plant grows wild. Plants are hydrodistilled while they are still very fresh (a part of the production is usually put to dry for a few weeks in order to produce the Immortelle Absolute). The distillation process lasts about 3-4 hours.

From the same botanical variety

Helichrysum absolute

Uses in perfumery :

Mainly used in chypres, floral, amber, leathery or woody notes. It allows to bring a very delicate tobacco and hay facets. Also works very well in peanuts agreements with, for example, the Osmanthus Absolute.
Nowaday, it is very trendy to use immortelle EO with green notes such as galbanum EO

Stability :

Gets easily coloured and olfactively degraded
Solubility issues in perfumes
The esters identified in this raw material can form their corresponding acid in stability tests. Neryl acecate contained here may form acetic acid.

Other comments :

Immortelle is so called because of its very slight appearance variations throughout its growth, even when grown and dried. Its Latin name Helichrysum, comes from the Greek and means "golden sun".
The characteristic smell of immortelle is due to the presence of small amounts of 3,5-dimethyloctane-4,6-dione and 2,4-dimethyl-heptane-3,5-dione.
Sometimes, immortelle is also called "curry plant" because of its colour.

Immortelle is so called because of its very slight appearance variations throughout its growth, even when grown and dried. Its Latin name Helichrysum, comes from the Greek and means "golden sun".
The characteristic smell of immortelle is due to the presence of small amounts of 3,5-dimethyloctane-4,6-dione and 2,4-dimethyl-heptane-3,5-dione.
Sometimes, immortelle is also called "curry plant" because of its colour.

Allergens :

This ingredient does not contain any allergen.

Signal word :

Danger

Hazard pictograms :

Precautionary statements :

IFRA 51^th :

This ingredient is not restricted for the 51th amendment