Oakmoss absolute (low atranol & chloratranol)

Chemotypes :

In perfumery, three types of lichen are used:
Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach : Oak Moss Absolute
Evernia furfuracea (L.) Zopf : Tree Moss Absolute
Usnea longissima Ach. : Cedar Moss Absolute, which can be found in China and Tibet, but of a different botanical family.

Other species of the genus Evernia are also distinguished: Evernia divaricata (L.) Ach., Evernia esorediosa (Müll.Arg.) Du Rietz, Evernia mesomorpha Nyl. These are not used in perfumery.

Extraction process :

The harvest is handmade in Yugoslavia for the most part. The mosses are piled in a truck specially used for the harvest and taken to the factory. The mosses are macerated in water at room temperature for one to three days, to moisten and soften the lichens, which are crushed afterwards. The extraction is done by three successive washes with a mixture of cyclohexane and isopropanol.
The concrete is obtained after removing the lichens and evaporating the extraction solvent. The absolute is obtained by extracting the concrete with alcohol. The concrete waxes are precipitated by a glazing with a temperature gradient from 140 °F to 32 °F.
The absolute yield is between 1.5 and 4%.
Part of the colour can be removed from the absolute by treatment with activated carbon, or almost completely by molecular distillation.

Uses in perfumery :

Useful in fougere and chypre notes (with Bergamot EO, Cistus EO, Cistus Labdanum Absolute Green Patchouli EO and possibly Lavender EO) for a rich and warm addition.

Stability :

Solubility issues in perfumes
Stable oil in perfumes and in diverse functional bases

Other comments :

Botanically, we talk about lichen rather than moss. Lichens result from a symbiosis between a mushroom and an algae.
We also differentiate tree mosses and cedar mosses.
The use of oak moss tends to be replaced by Evernyl® or Oak Moss Olifak base, as this raw material is strongly regulated by the IFRA.

Botanically, we talk about lichen rather than moss. Lichens result from a symbiosis between a mushroom and an algae.
We also differentiate tree mosses and cedar mosses.
The use of oak moss tends to be replaced by Evernyl® or Oak Moss Olifak base, as this raw material is strongly regulated by the IFRA.

Allergens :

Oak Moss Absolute is an allergenic ingredient alone

Signal word :

Warning

Hazard pictograms :

Precautionary statements :

IFRA 51^th :

This ingredient is restricted by the 51th amendment

Quantitative limit on the use :

Restricted ingredients: notes
For Oakmoss and Treemoss extracts, the restrictions in the Standards are directly linked to the presence of Atranol and Chloroatranol in the finished products. To ensure that those remain below trace levels, the upper concentration levels have not been increased (compared its last publication in the Amendment 43 (2008)). In the presence of Treemoss extracts, the level of Oakmoss in the respective category has to be reduced accordingly, such that the total amount of both extracts does not exceed the maximum permitted level in each category as listed in the table above. If the same fragrance mixture is intended to be used in more than one IFRA Category, then the most restrictive limitation (based on foreseen use concentrations and maximum permitted level) will apply.
Specified ingredients: notes
Oakmoss extracts must not contain added Treemoss, which is a source of resin acids. Traces of resin acids may be carried over to commercial qualities of Oakmoss in the manufacturing process. These traces must not exceed 0.1% (1000 ppm) of Dehydroabietic acid (DHA) in the extract. The concentration of resin acids in Oakmoss can be measured with an High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) Reverse Phase – Spectrofluorometry method. Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.

Disclaimer :

ScenTree is solely responsible for the information provided here.

To learn more about IFRA's standards : https://ifrafragrance.org/safe-use/library