Helvetolide®

Uses in perfumery :

Helvetolide is used in all kinds of perfumes (but espacially in fine fragrance because of its price) to bring a heady pear note and an Ambrette Seeds Absolute base note. It can be used as a fixative, with no cheap sub-effect. It is basically used as Musk T®, but brings more volume and tenacity to the fragrance.

Year of discovery :

Discovered in 1990 by chemists Giersch and Schulte-Este. 'Helvetolide®' trademark has been published and protected by Firmenich SA since 30/04/1995 (brand N°636238). 'Helvetolide®' trademark has been published and protected by Firmenich SA since 12/12/2001 (brand N°772121)

Natural availability :

Helvetolide® does not exist on a natural state. It can't be extracted from a plant.

Isomerism :

Helvetolide® used in perfumery is a mix of two isomers, due to the presence of two asymmetric carbons inside the molecule. The first one is dextrorotatory Helvetolide® (+), less floral but more musky than the other isomer. This is why it is often preferred as the other isomers, and sometimes used alone, isolated from levorotatory Helvetolide® (-).

Synthesis precursor :

Helvetolide® can be used to synthesize Romandolide®, which is more powerful. This synthesis consists in replacing the dimethyl groupement of the ether function of Helvetolide®, by a carbonyle function, forming an ester.

Synthesis route :

Data not available.

Stability :

Stable in perfumes and in various functional bases.

Other comments :

Helvetolide® is the first acyclic musk ever used in perfumery. It participated to the opening of a new molecules category. After it, Romandolide®, Nebulone®, Edenolide® and Sylkolide® were synthesized.

Allergens :

This ingredient does not contain any allergen.

Signal word :

-

Hazard pictograms :

Precautionary statements :

IFRA 51^th :

This ingredient is not restricted for the 51th amendment